A bunch is a book of intentions. Every swatch in it has a weight in grams, a weave, a fibre blend and a finish, and those four facts predict almost everything about how the finished garment will behave on your shoulders in five years’ time.

Start with weight. Anything under 260g is a summer cloth: it will feel wonderful in July and crease if you look at it wrongly in November. Between 280g and 340g is the true year-round range in a temperate climate, and it is where most first commissions should sit.

Then look at twist. A high-twist yarn resists creasing and recovers overnight on a hanger; it is the reason a fresco suit survives a week of travel while a soft flannel does not. Flannel earns its place in a wardrobe, but rarely as the only suit in it.

Finally, hold the swatch against daylight rather than shop light. Navy that reads flat under tungsten often reveals a subtle marl or a faint stripe outdoors, and that is the version of the cloth other people will see.