Linen creases. That is not a flaw to be engineered away; it is the reason the cloth breathes and the reason it looks alive on a warm day.

The trick is structure. A linen jacket cut with a soft shoulder, minimal lining and a light canvas will crease at the elbow and drape everywhere else. The same cloth over a heavy, fused chest looks crumpled rather than relaxed.

Colour helps too. Oatmeal, stone and tobacco disguise creasing far better than pure white, and they sit more comfortably alongside city shoes.

Hang it overnight in a bathroom after a shower and most of the day falls out of it. Resist the urge to press a linen jacket flat; the sheen you create is far harder to undo than a crease.